Footwear in the Abbasid Caliphate (750–1258 Baghdad/1261–1517 Cairo CE)

The Abbasid elegant ensemble wouldn’t be complete without equally elegant footwear. Elegant Abbasid footwear included East African sandals (al-niʿal al-zanjiyya), thick shoes from Cambay in India, Yemeni furry shoes (mushaʿara), fine sandals (al-Èadhw al-liã§f), light checkered shoes (al- mukhattama al-khifaf), Hashimi boots (al-khifaf al-hashimiyya), and the curved shoes of the secretarial class (al-maksåra al-kutt§biyya).

It was permissible to wear shoes in such color combinations as black and red and yellow and black. Red leather or black leather boots are also stylish. The elegant women’s footwear included furry Cambay shoes dyed green, boots in the style of Persian ladies (al-khifāf al-zananiyya), curved shoes, and Edessa-style shoes. Al-Waššāʾ does not mention female footwear studded with gemstones. However, it is reported by Al-Mas’udi that Zubaidah, the wife of Harun Al-Rashid initiated this fashion. Male footwear could be of any of several kinds of leather, colors, and designs.


The wearing of stockings or jawārib (jawārib, Arabic plural of jurāb from Pers. gurab) made of ẖazz and silk and goat’s wool, a fashion adopted from the Persians was well-established.

A governor from Maqamat Al-Hariri wearing purple variegated stockings (jawārib)
A governor from Maqamat Al-Hariri wearing purple variegated stockings (jawārib)
A man wearing red stockings from "Kitab Al-Haywan"
A man wearing red stockings from “Kitab Al-Haywan”
A scene of a Maqamat manuscript showing several types of footwear. The two men on the left are wearing golden-colored leather boots (khuff) under black shoes (ni'al), whereas the man on the right is only wearing leather boots.
A scene of a Maqamat manuscript showing several types of footwear. The two men on the left are wearing golden-colored leather boots (khuff) under black shoes (ni’al), whereas the man on the right is only wearing leather boots.
The figure on the left is wearing shoes (ni'al), figure on the right is wearing long boots (khuffs).
The figure on the left is wearing shoes (ni’al), figure on the right is wearing long boots (khuffs).
12th-century stocking,  found in Fustat, Egypt.
12th-century stocking, found in Fustat, Egypt.
Socks, 12th-13th century, Egypt.
Socks, 12th-13th century, Egypt.


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